Charbogne, gateway to the enchanted Ardennes

The enchanting landscape, misty rivers and endless forest of the Ardennes have inspired many poets in the past and continue to inspire them today. The towns of Charleville-Mézières, Juniville, La Roche-en-Ardenne and Bouillon were visited by two of the most famous enfants terribles of nineteenth-century French poetry, Arthur Rimbaud and Paul Verlaine, who shared the rebellious and defiant character of the Ardennes. They were two poetic geniuses who were complete opposites: Verlaine, the academic, formal poet and Rimbaud the instinctive, social-commentator poet. What a magnificent combination! They would shake up poetry for ever. This trail takes you through places where they sought refuge, places where they recharged their batteries, and places that inspired them.

Crossing the land of the Ardenne means encountering contrasting landscapes steeped in legends. The most secret valleys, the deepest forests and the wildest rivers have given rise to legends, some of which are told and experienced with the current of the water. In the Meuse valley, as the river twists and turns, revel in the surprise of amazing landscapes, monuments nestling in green settings and soothing calm. Exploring the Ardenne with the current, following the pace set by the river, ensures a change of scenery and a sense of wonder.

For those who love walking or cycling, the Green Routes in France and the RAVeL in Belgium open the doors to the most secret corners of both countries. As you cycle along the banks of the Meuse or hike through the secret Oignies Forest, you will understand why these long-distance paths are known as “happy trails”. They only rarely cross roads, so you can cycle or walk in complete peace! The path along the beautiful Meuse valley crosses the river several times on ancient bridges that are works of art. The path that leads to Nismes Forest follows the route taken by the old stopping trains from station to station. But above all, these paths allow you to discover countryside that is inaccessible by car.

This 83 km green way runs between Givet and Charleville-Mézières along the former towpath by the Meuse. Its asphalt coating allows access to any type of bicycle and roller skating enthusiast. It crosses through the grandiose landscape of the Ardennes massif, from north to south, following the meanders of the river.

Given its position at the crossroads of the Germanic and Latin parts of Europe, the Ardennes region is strewn with evidence of its tumultuous and violent past. The powerful fortresses which tower over the landscape from high rocky outcrops have given rise to myths and legends. Their thick walls bear witness to a thousand years of sieges, wars and pillage. Bouillon, Herbeumont, Sedan and Montcornet still echo to the clash of swords and the songs of minstrels. In the light-filled valley of the Meuse, wealthy cities developed, but their riches had to be defended. The Fortifications Trail takes you along these mediaeval commercial roads, where the fate of Europe was decided on countless occasions.

Allow two days for this route, used for centuries to travel between Sedan castle and Bouillon castle in Belgium. A walk where water, the forest and nature are omnipresent. Although neighbours, these two regions belong to very separate lands. One nestles in a fold of the Ardennes massif, while the other stretches along the banks of the Meuse river, near the first slope of the Parisian basin. The two towns have been sisters for a thousand years, linked by history since the signing of the Treaty of Verdun in 843 dividing up the Carolingian Empire. Along this circuit you can explore Europe’s largest feudal castle in Sedan, experience Godfrey’s first crusade at the castle and archeoscope in Bouillon and take part in medieval festivals… all in an outstanding forest setting. Breathe!

On mainly paved forest roads, this walk crosses the southernmost part of the municipality of Vresse sur Semois. Discover the village of Pussemange located on the border with France and an impressive view from the watchtower of the vast forests in this remote corner.

Quiet forest walk starting from Sugny. This walk is a shortened version of walk No 46 Pinsaumont. 

Located close to the Semois. Shady site. Pleasant surroundings.

“This French countryside is awful! My fate depends on this book, for which half a dozen atrocious stories still have to be invented. How can atrocities be invented here?”… And yet, it was at his mother’s family farm that Rimbaud was to write one of his greatest works. Walking around Roche, you can imagine the poet in the loft of the barn, completing ‘A Season in Hell’. This masterpiece harbours both a total rejection of his past and a need for a passionate life, for an immediate life. This poem is also an adieu. Rimbaud discovers that the western world is closed. Once it had been published, Arthur left for the East, in search of absolute purity. He was to lead the life of an adventurer there. Nothing remains of the Cuif family home but a wall. Where the loft once stood, there is now a commemorative stele of Rimbaud.