The Montbrison tour (trail route no. 13)

In spite of the altitude, the region's dry climate and the local growing conditions of limestone and sediments facing due south made the planting of grapevines possible as far back as the tenth century. The municipality owes its name to the presence of these vineyard operations, which were very significant in the late nineteenth century. The almost simultaneous appearance of the phylloxera aphid and the Briançon train, bringing wine from Provence, spelled the end of this activity here.

Eagles can be seen gliding around the Tête d'Aval. In the hottest part of the day, they circle on the thermals rising above the limestone cliffs. Having gained height in this way, they can reach their hunting territory without having to flap their wings. 

Un drôle d’insecte mi-papillon mi-libellule, aux grandes antennes noires, aux ailes transparentes teintées de jaune ou de blanc et aux nervures bien marquées, vole sur la prairie aux heures chaudes de la journée. C’est l’ascalaphe soufré. Les ascalaphes font partie de la famille des névroptères et sont cousins des fourmilions et des chrysopes. Ce sont des prédateurs de petits insectes, surtout des mouches. 

Le chevreuil est abondant ici. C'est le plus petit cervidé d’Europe. Le mâle porte des bois courts et tombant chaque automne. La diapause embryonnaire est une particularité de l’espèce. Après fécondation, l’œuf cesse tout développement pendant 6 mois avant la reprise de la gestation. Le rut du chevreuil ayant lieu au cœur de l’été, les faons naîtront en mai-juin de l’année suivante, à une saison plus favorable à leur survie.

Dans le bois, se mêle au pin sylvestre le chêne pubescent. C’est un petit chêne aux feuilles marcescentes : elles sèchent l’automne mais restent sur l’arbre tout l’hiver. Il a été nommé pubescent car ses jeunes rameaux, ses bourgeons et parfois le dessous de ses feuilles est pubescent, c'est-à-dire recouvert d’un fin duvet. La forêt de pin sylvestre et de chêne pubescent est une forêt typique des adrets montagnards dans les vallées intra-alpines. 

Bouchier est un petit hameau de la commune de Saint-Martin-de-Queyrières qui, malgré son accès difficile, accueille quelques habitants permanents. Située à l’écart du hameau, sur un promontoire dominant la vallée de la Durance, la chapelle Saint-Hippolyte date du début du XVIème siècle. Elle est accolée à ce qui fut une cellule d’ermite et abrite des fresques dont certaines relatent des guérisons miraculeuses effectuées par le saint. Elle attirait les malades venus demander son intercession. 

This member of the Gramineae family (now called Poaceae) forms large clumps on stony, dry and sunny ground. It grows in abundance here on the track embankment, taking advantage of the sunlight allowed through by the break in the forest. Its inflorescences reflecting silvery-gold glints are made up of flowerets with long edges. They create a very misty effect in the late summer when the plant is mature, forming large shimmering bouquets in the evening sunlight. . 

Dans les zones humides bordant les ruisseaux vit le criquet ensanglanté. Il porte ce nom car la femelle porte des taches rouge pourpre tranchant avec sa couleur générale verte. Ses oeufs sont sensibles à la sécheresse, aussi ne pond-elle que dans des sols humides. Pour courtiser la femelle, le mâle ne stridule pas mais émet des “clic”... “clic”... qu'il produit en détendant d'un seul coup sa jambe postérieure.

In the alpine pastures, the iconic marmot utters a loud high-pitched whistle to warn its neighbours of approaching danger: the golden eagle is on the prowl! This medium-sized rodent prefers to live in the high-mountain grasslands in family groups. Their favourite pastimes are gnawing, digging, taking a siesta in the sunshine and performing somersaults. In the winter, the marmot takes refuge in its burrow where it hibernates. It is only seen between the months of April and October. It marks the boundary of its territory by rubbing its cheeks on the rocks or leaving droppings.

The woolly berardia is a plant that grows approximately 10 centimetres tall and has a short, almost non-existent stem. This perennial member of the Asteracea family grows in limestone and schist screes. It has veined oval, woolly leaves which are covered in soft hairs. Its 4 to 7 cm compact head with pale yellow flowers stands up from its centre. 

In May, a melodious song rings out from the cliff top. It’s the song of the common rock thrush, appropriately named and a wonderful bird. Although the female is rather dull (an advantage when egg-sitting) the male sports an orange underside and a blue-grey head. A trans-Saharan migratory bird, every year it returns to the mountains of Southern Europe where it frequents the rocky, sunlit slopes. It is not very common and is in decline, so spotting it is even more special!

Irrigation of meadows and private gardens; preservation of traditions; the promotion of social contact through collective canal maintenance operations carried out by local people; development of canals to create trails for tourists and locals... The canals have fulfilled a variety of roles, hence the benefit of conserving and maintaining them. 

This is a hot, west-exposed slope with rocky ground. The plant life reflects this situation: the narrow-leaved lavender and acanthus-leaved thistle grow here. The latter looks like a large sun with its very big flower head which quickly turns golden and its leaves radiating out around it. It often used to be hung on house doors... but much better to leave it lighting up the stony meadows!

A large plant grows along the canal side; a sort of thistle although it is not spiky: the Montpellier thistle. Its oval, pointed leaves are edged with large, stiff but non-spiky cilia. Its flowers are pink. In France, it is only found in the Alps and the Pyrenees and a few departments in the south. Associated with wet areas, this species has become rare in many regions because of damage to its habitat. 

Dans la forêt, on peut souvent admirer le lys martagon. Cette superbe plante a de grandes fleurs pendantes aux pétales recourbés, roses mouchetés de pourpre, laissant apparaître les étamines orangées. Ses feuilles sont allongées et verticillées. Elle pousse dans les prairies et bois frais et, bien que  commune ici, est rare dans bien des régions françaises. Sa cueillette est d’ailleurs interdite ou réglementée.

Stream correction dams have been built by RTM (Mountain Land Rehabilitation), a branch of the National Forestry Agency. The purpose of these structures is to limit erosion and mountain stream flooding. The RTM has been in existence for a long time, set up in the late nineteenth century. At that time, the slopes where much more sparsely wooded than they are today, and erosion was a very significant problem.

A strange insect, part butterfly, part dragonfly, with large black antennae, transparent wings tinted with yellow or white and with well-defined veining, flies over the meadow during the hottest part of the day. It is the owly sulphur. Owlflies are members of the Neuroptera (net-winged) order and are cousins of ants and lacewings. They are predators of small insects, flies in particular. 

Le sol de la pinède est tapissé d’un sous-arbrisseau rampant aux feuilles persistantes, ovales et vernissées. Au printemps, le raisin d’ours donne de jolies petites fleurs en forme de grelot, blanches bordées de rose. Elles vont donner des baies rouges, comestibles mais farineuses. Les ours les apprécient, d’où son nom. C’est une plante bien adaptée à la sécheresse. 

Sporting a black cap, the black woodpecker is the biggest of the woodpecker family. Wary and solitary, it is difficult to spot, but its strident calls give its presence away. It feeds mainly on ants and insects living in dead trees, which it extracts by hammering into the wood. It hollows out a nest hole in trees. Once the young have left the nest, it may be taken over by owls or forest-dwelling bats.  

In the pine forest undergrowth stands a large, completely purple orchid. It has no leaves, just a few whitish scales on the stem. Lacking chlorophyll (the green plant pigment which plays a role in photosynthesis, the process that allows the production of organic matter), it lives as a parasite on tree roots.

A long trunk that is reddish-brown towards the top, sparse foliage, grey-green needles grouped in pairs... It has to be the Scots pine. Happy in poor soil, this softwood tree can withstand below-zero temperatures as well as summer droughts, and so it is very common in intra-alpine valleys with a continental climate, like the Vallouise.

In the spring, an odd song can be heard among the old trees in the orchard, a loud song similar to that of the green woodpecker, only slower. It is that of the northern wryneck. This bird owes its name to the extreme way it extends and twists its neck when it feels threatened. Its French name torcol fourmilier is a reference to the fact that it feeds on ants (fourmils in French). Difficult to spot because its plumage merges into the colour of the tree trunks, it gives its presence away by its song when it returns from its migration.

Si on ne s'y attend pas forcément, on peut cependant observer régulièrement des hérons cendrés le long de la Gyronde. S'il pêche poissons ou amphibiens, il peut aussi se nourrir,de petits rongeurs dans les prairies avoisinant la rivière. Sa technique est toujours la même, une chasse à l'affût avec, une fois la proie repérée, une détente foudroyante du cou et le harponnage avec son bec en poignard. Redoutable !

The track passes through a forest of Scots pines, mixed with some downy oak trees. It is a forest typical of those found in the lower south-facing slopes (those exposed to the sun) in the intra-alpine valleys.

Etruria was the territory of the Etruscans, in the area of present-day Tuscany. Although this honeysuckle does not grow only in Tuscany, it is Mediterranean, however, and only grows naturally in the wild in the southern half of France. Being a plant that needs warmth, it does not grow at altitude, except here where the south-facing slopes are particularly dry and warm. Its large pink and yellow flowers are highly perfumed.