Trails of the Maquis de Gordes through La Sénancole

Since the revival of the first millennium, a castle is built on this rocky outcrop around which then develops the village. In the early 16th century, the Simiane the family built a new castle, which in its architecture is an illustration of the transition from the troubled times of the Middle Ages and the new lifestyle of the Renaissance. It has kept defensive elements:(Thick walls, towers with machicolation), but gradually opens up with its mullioned and transom windows.

Prior to November 1942 and the invasion of the southern zone by the Germans and Italians, the Resistance had begun to organize itself particularly around several village traders. First, to help the many refugees running from the Nazis, and then, after the establishment of the Compulsory Work Service (Service du Travail Obligatoire - STO) to hide and train for combat and the clandestine life of many young Resistance fighters. In the spring of 1943, supported by the Secret Army (AS), the maquis of Gordes was born.

Disputes and arrests multiplied, the members of the Resistance, under the command of Paul Nouveau often changed camps or shelters, integrate the Ventoux maquis but can not avoid the deportation at the end of 1943 of their first leader, Emile Roure. Further losses are regrettable in 1944 upon the disastrous arrival of the 8th Company (military unit) of the Brandenburg division, which spread terror, hunting and infiltrating groups. 12 inhabitants of the Gordes will be killed in battle, or arrested, tortured and shot.

Au début du XIXe s., Gordes compte une population importante. Mais, malgré une dynamique de l’artisanat, notamment de la cordonnerie, la misère et la maladie restent des fléaux. Dès la fin du XIXe s., Gordes subit de grands bouleversements (tremblements de terres, mutations industrielles, guerre de 14-18) qui entrainent le déclin de la population. Dès la seconde guerre mondiale, séduits par la beauté du site et sa lumière si particulière, toute une pléiade d’artistes, éliront Gordes pour y vivre et/ou y travailler : Marc Chagall, Jean Deyrolle, Serge Poliakoff, Willy Ronis, Victor Vasarely...

In the shade of two plane trees, the building is a square surrounded by cobblestone decorations. In the centre stands the shaft, also square and 3.80m high. The wash fountain is supplied in water by four canons in wrought iron attached to a mascaron (ornament) carved instone. This wash fountain was erected in 1826 and allowed the residents from the upper side of the village to get a steady water source which was difficult given that the village is built on its rocky headland.

Originally Romanesque, but highly deteriorated in the 16th century, the present church was rebuilt in the mid 18th century as evidenced by the neoclassical architectural style of its front façade with pilasters and pediments. Formerly dedicated to Notre-Dame, it has been dedicated since its reconstruction to Saint-Firmin, former Bishop of Uzès. Inside, the nave is flanked by eight side chapels.

Saint Firmin, évêque de Narbonne, est connu pour être l'un des premiers évêques du diocèse d'Uzès, dans le Gard. Disciple et ami de Saint Césaire d'Arles, il était réputé pour son éloquence et sa maîtrise de la théologie. Il a participé au concile d'Orléans en 541 et sa renommée et son influence se sont déployées à l’intérieur et au-delà des limites du diocèse, jusqu'en Italie. Il est le saint patron de Gordes ; l’église et le palais du village portent son nom.

En Provence, on appelle « calade » une rue empierrée avec des pierres calcaires posées verticalement sur la tranche. On parle de rue pavée à pas-d’âne pour désigner les vastes paliers encaladés successifs que séparent des marches très basses et dont la longueur est calculée de telle sorte qu’on aborde la marche suivante de l’autre pied. Ces marches facilitaient le cheminement des ânes et mulets, très nombreux à Gordes puisqu’ils étaient le seul moyen de transporter des charges lourdes dans les ruelles pentues. Aujourd'hui, ''Les Calades de Gordes'' est aussi une emblématique rando VTT, une des plus anciennes du Luberon, qui se déroule chaque printemps depuis 1994.

A few metres down the left, one of the oldest wash fountains of Gordes is hidden (it is mentioned in the middle of the 16th century). This wash fountain has the distinction of being built against the cliff. Water runs from the rock and three canons supply the wash fountain which overflows into the wash house provided with two basins for rinsing and washing. Uncommon today, wash fountains were once a focal point of the village life, a place of essential socialization.

On August 22, 1944 the village of Gordes is bombarded from this headland. The Germans destroyed in a mortar attack many homes, others at the village entrance were blown up to prevent access. Most residents fled, those who stayed protected themselves however they could. In spite of everything, François Bruneau was ambushed and shot at his window by a German sniper.

Gordes is one of those typical Provençal villages, set in a defensive position on its limestone rock. In the Gallo-Roman times, Gordes was the main oppidum (public defence shelter) of the city of Cavaillon. With its cobblestone streets, small squares, Gordes is pleasant and offers a rich cultural life (exhibitions, festivals ...).

D'ici, le panorama  offre une vue imprenable sur Gordes, le château, l'église et la cascade de maisons en pierre sèche. A la période gallo-romaine, Gordes était le principal oppidum (refuge public défensif) de la cité de Cavaillon. Au XIe s. et les périodes troubles du Moyen-Age, le bourg se développe autour du château fort, pour devenir une véritable forteresse protégée par des remparts. L’histoire de Gordes est marquée à la Renaissance par la puissante famille provençale Simiane d’Agoult, en la personne de Bertrand Rambaud de Simiane qui, au XVIe s., remanie et agrandi le château.

Here at the farm of Grangiers in spring of 1943, Roger and Bernadette Louis hosted the first resistants to the Compulsory Work Service (STO), who will join the different maquis of the area. In September 1943, the Germans were tipped-off and came to arrest Roger Louis. He managed to escape and joined the general staff of the Ventoux maquis. In the summer of1944, the soldiers of the 8th Company (military unit) of Brandenbourg return, pillaged the house, tortured and threaten to kill Bernadette. She then manages to escape with her five children.

You must have heard the term "calade" while on a stroll. This term refers to a paved road or a cobblestone street. The word "calade" comes from the root "cal" meaning "stone" or "step" but also from "cala" in Provençal meaning "to go down". Some paths and many streets were paved so to facilitate the passing of men and animals, but also to limit erosion. First on slopes, public squares or fountain decorations, then they were paved for reasons of cleanliness.

By June 1943, it was here, near the Sénancole, where the first Resistance members, welcomed and trained by groups of the Secret Army, were initially grouped before having to find quickly other dens.

Bories are dry stone huts, built without binder or mortar. These temporary shelters for men, tools, crops and animals, were built by farmers with field stones. Round, square or rectangular, their vault is in corbels. Those still standing are not older than 3 or 4 centuries, the older ones would have crumbled following their abandonment. Here, thirty dry stone huts have been resurrected and restored by ten years of work.

Proof of a very active rural life until the 19th century, the Sénancole valley is filled with troglodyte constructions (that is to say, built under the rock) including the house of the Croix des Baux and windmill of Beaume (concealed downstream on the opposite bank). Taking advantage of the natural shelters fashioned by time, a masonry façade was added by man to reduce the volumes and make them habitable.

Under this rock, the members of the Resistance came to find shelter several times, including the night of July 10, 1943 while the Germans were searched one of their wrecked aircrafts fallen over the Sénanque valley.

The valleys and cliffs of Vaucluse-Monts are home to majestic raptors. They are the territory of the Eurasian-Eagle Owl, the largest nocturnal raptor of Europe (a 1.80m wingspan!). It builds its range in the steep cliffs, where it breeds and rears its young from January to June Like other Luberon raptors, their environment is subject to a prefectural order biotope protection.

The first major grouping of the Gordian resistance fighters, about thirty men, was initially based here in the spring of 1943, with Felix Poncet who unhesitatingly made his farm available. Their supplies and training were provided by officials of the Secret Army (A.S.). Then, before enrolment growth and the danger of keeping them on for too long, the decision is made to join the Ventoux maquis, more organized and better equipped.

These dry calcareous grasslands were once grazed or even cultivated with lavender. After abandoning these customs, other plants took over these areas like the famous Ophrys Drumana. Roaming through these lawns, there is a procession of butterflies and grasshoppers and it is not unusual to come across the European mantis. Much more rare and very discreet, the Spiked Magician, the longest bush cricket in Europe, also roams the lawns. It is a protected species in France.

This very remarkable old oak has a surprising feature. Its trunk is split in two parts yet it is still alive. 15m high and 5m in circumference, an entire person can go inside.

& Laquo; "Ora et labora"… & Laquo; "Pray and work", such is Saint-Benoît's rule that still governs the daily life of monks in the Sénanque. Built in the 12th century, the abbey is the proof of the spiritual revival of the Middle Ages born at Citeaux in Saône-et-Loire and then spread throughout Europe. Classified as a historic monument, the Sénanque is a remarkable example of Cistercian architecture made of abstinence and simplicity in the image of the spirituality it serves.

In the 12th century, Cistercian monks did not go too far to find the stones to build the abbey of Sénanque. This limestone, a microcodium, is the result of the erosion of the Dalle des Busans, upstream, weakened by the Microcodium bacteria 40 million years ago. The fruits of this erosion have accumulated in an ancient lake, at the current location of the Sénanque farm. The monks thus used small quarries to build the abbey.

July 10, 1943, a German fighter plane, Messerschmitt Bf 109 model, crashes on the hills of the Sénancole valley. All night, the resistance fighters will hide to prevent German troops from searching for the plane.

Unlike the Eurasian Eagle-owl, another emblem of the Luberon, the scops owl is a dwarf. It is also the only owl to migrate to tropical Africa. Active at night, they particularly appreciate the holes of old trees or holes in the walls. In the daytime, it can relax in parks and gardens. This small owl feeds only on insects and lives nearby farms and populated areas.

After landing in Provence, the resistance fighters grouped into the FFI (French Forces of the Interior) pester the occupier multiplying the raids (military tactics). In retaliation, on August 22, 1944 the "soldiers of Brandenburg" bomb the village, destroying twenty houses. Three days later, on August 25, the FFI regained control of the area and the department of Vaucluse is released.