Les Têtes via La Pignée (trail route no. 23)

As part of its restructuring after the closure of the industrial site, the town of L'Argentière-la-Bessée opted for sports tourism, exploiting the natural elements present on the site, that is to say, water. Standing at the beginning of the longest navigable section of the Durance river, in 1993 the municipality decided to establish itself as a major white water centre by creating this stadium which covers a 400-metre stretch. So thanks to its reputation and its ideal situation, every year this stadium hosts several elite competitions at national and international level.

The source of the Fournel rises in the Fournel valley, in the heart of the Parc National des Écrins, and flows into the Durance near the white water stadium. It is known as a high alpine canyon offering lots of sport and leisure possibilities, and is the most popular in the Haut Val Durance. It is ideal for an introduction to vertical activities, in particular thanks to the presence of several jumps, toboggan runs and rappel sites. Access is authorised from April to October and is regulated because it is located upstream from an EDF water intake, which presents a real hazard.

The Durance is the biggest river in Provence. Its source rises in the municipality of Montgenèvre at an altitude of 2,390 metres, and it flows down to meet the Rhône to the south of Avignon. This is a "pluvio-nival" river, that is to say, its flow depends on the natural addition of water due to snowmelt and rainfall. It thus constitutes a real playground for kayakers from across Europe.

The American James Francis developed the Francis turbine between 1849 and 1855. It is a “àreaction” turbine suitable for medium-sized waterfalls (with a water head of between 15 and 500 metres). The water enters the turbine and then circulates between the turbine blades, which are fixed, while the inner wheel is mobile. The pressure at the wheel intake is greater than the pressure at the outlet. 

Dès fin avril, on peut entendre la nuit et même le jour ses tiou très doux. Il revient d'Afrique où il a passé l'hiver, car il est essentiellement insectivore : pour ce petit hibou, de gros insectes (grande sauterelle verte …) font de bons repas. Pour nicher, il s'installe dans un arbre creux ou même dans une cavité en bâtiment. Il affectionne les lieux chauds … et riches en insectes bien sûr !

Sur les zones rocailleuses s'étalent de petites plantes « grasses » aux fleurs étoilées, blanches pour certaines espèces, jaunes pour d'autres. Leurs feuilles sont souvent cylindriques, pointues à l’extrémité ou non selon les espèces, et pleines d'eau : vivant sur des lieux secs, elles font ainsi des réserves pour les jours difficiles ! A leur hauteur, si près de la roche, ça chauffe en été !

This large white butterfly decorated with black marks and red dots, is common in warm areas where stonecrops and houseleeks grow, as these are host plants for its caterpillars. It remains common in the Alps, but is much rarer elsewhere. In fact, it is a protected species. Its movement to higher altitudes has been observed, in line with climate warming, because its eggs, which it lays on plants in summer, need a certain number of days of freezing temperatures in winter in order to hatch.

The path first runs up through a forest of Scots pines, a tree identifiable by its salmon-coloured bark, especially at the top, and its needles arranged in pairs. It is the typical tree of warm south-facing slopes in the montane zone of intra-alpine valleys.

Deer are well-established across the Pays des Écrins. You can spot clues as to its presence: hoof prints or droppings, often in little piles. The stag loses his antlers at the end of winter (February-May) and they regrow up to the end of August. They reach full development before the rutting season (September), when you can hear the rutting call. The doe has no antlers.

This belvedere is worth the diversion, not only for its unrestricted panorama over the Fournel and Durance valleys but also for the place itself, with its sparse mature larches and the bare limestone scored with small fissures. These were created by the erosion of the rock by cold snowmelt waters or rain.

C’est au printemps qu’on peut entendre ce petit rapace nocturne ; ou en automne, période à laquelle il peut lancer de drôles de cris. D'activité diurne et crépusculaire, la chouette chevêchette est une prédatrice de passereaux et de petits rongeurs forestiers.  Mais lorsqu'ils la repèrent, les passereaux n'hésitent à venir la houspiller en grand nombre afin de rendre vaine toute tentative d'attaque surprise. Elle est inféodée aux forêts de montagne où elle recherche les arbres à cavité de pic pour établir son nid.

On the edges of seepage areas, the wild angelica grows. This is a tall umbellifer (the Apiaceae family) with blush white flowers and a hollow purplish stem. It is a cousin of garden angelica which grows in Northern Europe and is cultivated for its medicinal and culinary properties. The stem, the petiole (the «tail») and the leaf sheath can be candied.

A few coniferous trees, including the fir, are mixed in among the deciduous trees. The fir thrives on this north-exposed slope, called the ubac, because it cannot tolerate drought. Its flat needles are arranged on either side of the boughs rather than all the way around them, which distinguishes it from the spruce. They have two white stripes on their undersides. Its elongated cones stand upright, rather than hanging downwards.

Here and there, you come across a bush with narrow leaves which are green on their upper sides and silvery-grey underneath. Take care, the branches are spiky! In autumn, it produces acidic bright orange berries. They are very rich in vitamin C and are best as a syrup or marmalade. It is a pioneer species which colonises alluvial soils in sunny situations. It has also been used by the Mountain Terrain Restoration service to stabilise slopes prone to water runoff. 

When spring arrives, a relentless «cheep, cheep» echoes around the forest. The singer is a small bird with a greenish grey and yellowish-white back, the common chiffchaff. Like other inconspicuous birds, the male has every incentive to make himself heard if he wants to attract the attention of a female! They are migratory and live almost anywhere where there are trees and bushes. 

Bien caché dans un buisson, le mâle du rossignol lance son chant sonore et très varié. Quel bavard ! Il chante même la nuit ! Cet oiseau ne dépasse guère 1200 m d'altitude mais à Rame, il est bien présent. Il affectionne en effet les lieux chauds, souvent au bord de l’eau, et niche dans les buissons. Oiseau migrateur, il passe l'hiver en Afrique.