The Pays des Écrins Super Noir (trail no. 15)

This is the smallest member of the family of forest maples, growing to a height of 8 to 15 metres. It can live for up to 150 years. Its leaves have five round lobes; they are winged with wings sticking out in opposite directions. It is not fussy as to the dampness of the soil and it can withstand cold temperatures and drought. It is also an excellent bee forage plant, which can be enhanced by the proximity of a hive.

Dans les zones humides bordant les ruisseaux vit le criquet ensanglanté. Il porte ce nom car la femelle porte des taches rouge pourpre tranchant avec sa couleur générale verte. Ses oeufs sont sensibles à la sécheresse, aussi ne pond-elle que dans des sols humides. Pour courtiser la femelle, le mâle ne stridule pas mais émet des “clic”... “clic”... qu'il produit en détendant d'un seul coup sa jambe postérieure.

In the alpine pastures, the iconic marmot utters a loud high-pitched whistle to warn its neighbours of approaching danger: the golden eagle is on the prowl! This medium-sized rodent prefers to live in the high-mountain grasslands in family groups. Their favourite pastimes are gnawing, digging, taking a siesta in the sunshine and performing somersaults. In the winter, the marmot takes refuge in its burrow where it hibernates. It is only seen between the months of April and October. It marks the boundary of its territory by rubbing its cheeks on the rocks or leaving droppings.

The woolly berardia is a plant that grows approximately 10 centimetres tall and has a short, almost non-existent stem. This perennial member of the Asteracea family grows in limestone and schist screes. It has veined oval, woolly leaves which are covered in soft hairs. Its 4 to 7 cm compact head with pale yellow flowers stands up from its centre. 

In May, a melodious song rings out from the cliff top. It’s the song of the common rock thrush, appropriately named and a wonderful bird. Although the female is rather dull (an advantage when egg-sitting) the male sports an orange underside and a blue-grey head. A trans-Saharan migratory bird, every year it returns to the mountains of Southern Europe where it frequents the rocky, sunlit slopes. It is not very common and is in decline, so spotting it is even more special!

Discover one of the most famous forest cabins in the Vallouise valley, the Cabane de Chouvet. Surrounded by larches, Scots pines and black pines, this unmanned cabin stands at an altitude of 1,860 metres. On this slope, the mountain land has been under restoration since 1914 to prevent erosion and to combat deforestation. 

Not far from the Cabane de Chouvet, some small trees grow which are covered in white flowers in the springtime. This is the Briançon plum tree. Later in the year, it will produce golden plums with a tart flavour, carried on a very short stalk. A species endemic to the southwestern Alps, it has been prized by man because the kernel inside its stone produced a very fine oil, called huile de marmotte (marmot oil). 

The French children's song Savez-vous planter les choux? (Do you know how to plant cabbage?) is very appropriate here! In any event, the name Choulières is believed to be a reference to a place planted with cabbages and, by extension, a place where vegetables are grown. The phasing out of crop cultivation in the mountains has altered the landscape: the hay meadows and fields are now used as grazing meadows for increasingly large flocks of sheep.

Formerly an alpine pasture hamlet, Ailefroide lies at the foot of Mont Pelvoux, surrounded by larch woods and granite cliffs. It is the last hamlet in the valley, at the confluence of the valleys of Saint-Pierre and Celse Nière. The name Ailefroide is thought to originate from the term Alpe froide or “cold Alp”, a reference to the lack of sun here in the winter. It is the starting point of numerous trails and is a paradise for climbers. Ailefroide is a legendary destination for mountaineers: a stele commemorates the conquest of Mont Pelvoux in 1828.

Animal emblématique de la montagne, le chamois est en fait plutôt un animal de forêt. À l’aise dans les pentes et les rochers, il est doté d’adaptations remarquables telles qu’un cœur très volumineux et un sang très riche en globules rouges, lui permettant de gravir plusieurs centaines de mètres de dénivelé en quelques minutes (400 m à l’heure pour un randonneur moyen !). En hiver, leur pelage est plus sombre, faisant office de « capteur solaire ».

Hameau isolé en hiver du fait de la fermeture de la route à cause de la neige, Ailefroide reprend vie au printemps et peut accueillir plus de 1000 résidents en été. Ancien hameau d’alpage, Ailefroide est devenu, au XXème siècle, un camp de base majeur pour les alpinistes partant à l’assaut des sommetsmythiques environnants. Depuis les années 1980, la notoriété internationale du hameau s’est accrue avec le développement de la pratique de l’escalade en grandes voies sur les parois granitiques alentours.

A pair of eagles lives in the Ailefroide valley. Every pair has a very large hunting territory, which means there can be no more than one pair in a small valley of this size. This pair has built several eyries in the cliff walls around Ailefroide: just one is occupied every year, after a few refurbishments. The eyries are located at the lower altitudes of the hunting territory, so that the eagles can easily bring heavy prey back to the eaglet.

A soft call, a series of short repetitive notes, is heard in the forest. It's the call of the willow tit, also known as the alpine tit. As for its plumage, it has a greyish brown back, beige underparts, a white head with a black cap and a little black bib, It lives in mountain forests. It is the double of the marsh tit, which tends to live below 1,400 metres. 

In the valleys of the Alps and the Jura, the grey alder often grows in place of the black alder, present in many parts of France. Like its cousin, it grows on riversides and plays an important role in stabilising the banks. If it is cut down, its wood is bright orange in colour. But why cut it down?

Humans are decidedly bizarre animals: they build, knock down and start again. To protect the new infrastructures of Pelvoux, the Gyr was dammed. But, not able to flow as it did before, it deepened its bed, thus placing the foundations in danger of damage. And so works were carried out to widen its bed, allowing it to flow more naturally. This is also more favourable for biodiversity, as well as protecting the developed urban areas.

The route first leads through the small ski resort of Pelvoux-Vallouise, built in 1982. Very family-focused, in winter it's the ideal place for young children to learn to ski, with small lifts lower down, while their big brothers and sisters can ski higher up.

Du fait de divers travaux effectués au 20ème siècle, l'ancien lit en tresses du Gyr avait disparu au profit d'un lit très étroit et contraint. Cela a eu pour résultat un creusement important déstabilisant les berges, menaçant les réseaux et les infrastructures touristiques ainsi qu''un un appauvrissement important des milieux écologiques associés.. En 2018, certains travaux d'élargissement ont été menés pour permettre de limiter les dégâts de crues et d’érosion et restaurer les milieux aquatiques

On peut souvent observer le cincle plongeur, qui comme son nom l'indique plonge ! Puis il marche à contre-courant au fond de l'eau pour chasser des larves aquatiques d’insectes ou des petits crustacés, soulevant les galets avec son bec pour les déloger. C'est un indicateur de la présence de ces petits animaux et donc de la bonne qualité des eaux.

A grass grows in large clumps on the embankment: silver spike grass. It is adapted to stony, dry and sunny ground. Its inflorescences reflecting silvery-gold glints create a beautiful effect, but they are particularly noticeable in the late summer, when it forms large shimmering bouquets in the evening sunlight.

The path now alternates between cleared areas and forested areas. This forest contains Scots pine (recognisable by its orangey coloured trunk, especially at the top), downy oak (its young branches and leaf undersides covered with a fine down), and larch. The Scots pine and downy oak are very drought-tolerant (it is very limey soil here) and can also withstand low temperatures, and they are typical of the montane zone in this part of the Alps.

Listed and protected as an historic monument since 22 October 1913, the church dedicated to Saint Stephen is one of the most beautiful religious edifices in Hautes-Alpes. It is typical of the Romanesque churches in the Briançon region built in the second half of the 15th century, although its exact construction date is still uncertain.

Ce petit bois est un résidu de la forêt naturelle poussant au bord de l'eau, nommée ripisylve. Cette forêt se réduisant partout car détruite par l'urbanisation, est composée d'aulnes, de saules, de frênes, auxquels s'ajoutent peupliers, bouleaux, trembles… C’est pourtant une zone essentielle pour la fixation des berges et l’épuration des eaux et, offrant des habitats naturels spécifiques, joue un rôle majeur dans le maintien de la biodiversité.

The path offers a beautiful overall view of the limestone massif of Montbrison, overlooking the hamlets of Pelvoux with the peaks of the Cime de la Condamine, the Tête des Lauzières, the Pic de Montbrison and the Tête d'Amont.

The path crosses some limestone screes. It is a dry environment. The narrow-leaved lavender grows in sunny areas, a reminder that the Pays de Écrins is in the Southern Alps after all! Not to be confused with the lavandin, this plant naturally grows on rocky slopes in the mountains of the Midi.

L’histoire de Vallouise est à l’histoire des Vaudois. Cette congrégation religieuse née à Lyon militait pour le dépouillement, la simplicité. Considérée comme un mouvement de contestation, elle a fait l’objet, à partir du XIIIème siècle, de nombreuses persécutions. Les vaudois ont alors dû fuir. De nombreuses familles se sont réfugiées en Vallouise où les massacres et persécutions se poursuivirent. Le roi Louis XI mit temporairement fin à ces exactions. En 1486, en son honneur, la commune de Vallis Puta fût renommée Vallis Loysia.

The church of Saint-Étienne dates from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Inside is an altarpiece and a tabernacle in gilded wood dating from the eighteenth century, together with come mural paintings. Not far from the church stands the late sixteenth-century Chapel of the Penitents with a nineteenth-century painted facade.

In summer, bats take up residence in the church roof. The species living here is the lesser horseshoe bat, which has been in serious decline over recent decades. Every year, the mothers return after hibernating in caves and each one gives birth to one bat pup. Bats are insectivore mammals threatened by the insecticides used on farmland and on wooden structures and the loss of their hunting habitats and roosts, among other things. They are all protected.

Multi-storey houses - typical of the architecture in the valley in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries - stand on the old village street. The ground floor was reserved for animals, the first floor for habitation and the upper floors for grain storage. People moved from one floor to another by means of balconies interconnected by a staircase. Many of these balconies are arcaded with stone columns. This type of arcaded balcony is found throughout the valley.

Perché sur un bloc au milieu de la rivière, un oiseau trapu, à la queue courte, brun avec une grande bavette blanche, se balance de haut en bas avec la queue dressée. Puis il plonge et ne réapparaît que quelques instants plus tard. Cet oiseau chasse ainsi, plongeant puis marchant à contre-courant au fond de l'eau en quête de larves aquatiques d’insectes, de petits crustacés ou petits poissons, soulevant les galets avec son bec pour les déloger.

This butterfly with hyaline (glass-like) translucent white wings, marked with two black spots, flutters around the clearing or the edges of the forest, where the host plants of its caterpillars grow: the corydalis. Although abundant locally, it is nevertheless a species in sharp decline and is protected.

In former times, the postman would take this path every day: He would set out from Vallouise, deliver letters in Puy-Saint-Vincent and drop back down to Vallouise, stopping at the hamlets of Parcher on the way. In the winter, when the snow was too deep, the Traversouires (the inhabitants of Puy-Saint-Vincent) donned their snowshoes and wielded their shovels to clear the postman's path down to Vallouise. 

La pousterle, en occitan haut-alpin, c’est une petite porte (une poterne). Il vient du latin posterula qui signifie la porte de derrière. Ce toponyme désigne parfois un col, qui est une porte entre deux vallées en quelque sorte ! Les glaciers ont creusé cette porte où passait un bras entre le glacier qui occupait le vallon du Fournel et celui qui s’écoulait dans celle de Vallouise.

Dragonflies can be seen gliding around the lake One of them is relatively easy to identify: the four-spotted chaser. It is called this because there is a spot on each of its four wings. The female lays her eggs on floating vegetation and the larvae are aquatic. The dragonfly feeds primarily on mosquitoes and midges which it catches in mid-air. The male and female also mate while in flight... A real acrobat!

The common redstart can be told apart from its cousin, the black redstart by its white eyebrow (hence its French name which is translated as "white-browed redstart") and its orange breast. At least for the male, since the female of both birds is duller and brownish, but the female common redstart also has an orangey tail. It returns from Africa in early April and searches the areas to find a hollow in a tree or in an old wall where it builds its nest. 

Félix Neff was a Swiss Protestant pastor. He was responsible for the Protestant Revival in the Freissinières valley in the seventeenth century. He also set up the first education college for primary school teachers in France, in Dormillouse in 1826. He was also behind new irrigation and house-building techniques, developments which improved the everyday lives of the local people. 

The church of Sainte Marie-Madeleine was built in the seventeenth century. It is thought to be a former Protestant church which escaped destruction in 1684 when Louis XIV was leading an anti-Protestant drive. The Protestant church is then thought to have undergone works to convert it into a Catholic church.

The name Freissinières comes from the old word freissinière meaning "black ash". This municipality, which extends as far as the Col des Terres Blanches and the Col de Freissinières, both of which overlook the Champsaur valley, is made up of thirteen hamlets, although none of them are called Freissinières! Archaeological excavations carried out twenty years ago show that sites at high altitude (such as Faravel) were occupied on a seasonal basis from the retreat of the glaciers 12,000 years ago (Upper Palaeolithic period) and that this occupation continued after that.

The common barberry is a bush with long thorns arranged in threes, and with oval serrated leaves. In spring, it produces clusters of yellow flowers, which later develop into red, oval and elongated berries. These tart fruits are edible and can be made into jellies... if you have the patience to gather them! This shrub grows almost everywhere.

Elle correspond à une zone de surcreusement lors des glaciations : le glacier freiné par le verrou de roche dure de Pallon, a creusé une dépression. Au retrait des glaciers, un lac est resté coincé derrière ce verrou, peu à peu comblé par des alluvions. C'est maintenant un espace agricole facilement mécanisable.

The valley was created as the result of glacial overdeepening, that is to say, when the glacier came to a halt against the Pallon hard rock bar, it created a depression. When the glaciers retreated, a lake was left behind this rock bar and was gradually filled up by alluvial deposits. From a historical point of view, the Protestant pastor Félix Neff fundamentally altered life in the valley in 1826 by founding a training college for primary school teachers, developing irrigation processes and teaching new crop growing methods, among other things…

Perché sur un bloc au milieu de la rivière, un oiseau trapu, à la queue courte, brun avec une grande bavette blanche, se balance de haut en bas avec la queue dressée. Puis il plonge et ne réapparaît que quelques instants plus tard. Cet oiseau chasse ainsi, plongeant puis marchant à contre-courant au fond de l'eau en quête de larves aquatiques d’insectes, de petits crustacés ou petits poissons, soulevant les galets avec son bec pour les déloger. 

Here, the drought-sensitive fir has established itself among the larches. This forest harbours treasures such as the very rare ghost orchid and the shield-moss, a unique little moss - also rare - which grows on wood in an advanced state of decomposition and thus signals that the natural cycle of the forest is unimpaired.

Emblème des Alpes du sud, ce résineux perdant ses aiguilles en hiver, se pare d’or et illumine la montagne à l’automne. Les mélézins sont entretenus par le pâturage des troupeaux. Sans eux, d’autres arbres comme le sapin ou différents pins peuvent pousser pour donner un autre type de forêt. Espèce pionnière, le mélèze ne craint pas la lumière pour s’installer. Son bois résistant et imputrescible a toujours servi pour la construction des maisons.

A harsh call sounds from the forest. A jay perhaps? No, a nutcracker, its cousin. With dark, white-spotted plumage, this bird's strong beak can break open hazelnuts (although not walnuts as suggested by its name in French, cassenoix (walnut breaker)) and in particular it can dissect Swiss pine cones in order to reach the pine nuts inside. It inhabits high forests. It buries Swiss pine nuts in the ground to store up food for the winter. When winter comes, it will find the pine nuts again even under a thick layer of snow. Those it forgets will germinate.

Numerous species of birds of prey glide around the Crête de Gaulent, scanning the alpine meadows. Might there be something edible down there? The pair of eagles living in this little valley might well choose a marmot. Present in the massif only in the summer and autumn, the griffon vultures keep an eye out for a dead sheep. As for the regal bearded vulture, even larger than the griffons, he picks up the leftovers as he can feed on bones. 

The Sentier du Gouffre has sometimes been described as a Roman road, but we do not know the exact route the Roman road followed. One thing is certain, it used to be used by the villagers to reach their fields and vineyards, and for any other journeys they had to make.

Protected from Atlantic influences by the Massif du Pelvoux, the high Durance valley has a very dry climate with wide seasonal temperature fluctuations. It has grasslands very similar to the steppes of Central Europe which are rare in France. It is part of the Natura 2000 “Steppique durancien et queyrassien” (Durance and Queras valley steppes) site.

À l’époque des grandes glaciations, l’énorme glacier de la Durance a creusé son lit sur une épaisseur de plus de 200 m de haut. Le glacier de la vallée de Freissinières affluait à la surface de ce glacier. Leur fonte a laissé une grosse “marche d’escalier” nommée gradin de confluence. La Biaysse rejoignant la Durance, a peu à peu creusé ce gradin, d’abord en tant que torrent sous glaciaire puis après la fonte du glacier.

In ancient times, the Durance valley was a key communication corridor. Rama was a kind of staging post on the Roman road. In the Middle Ages, Rama was a small town with a noble's château. But the village was devastated by the capriciousness of the Durance and the Biaysse rivers on numerous occasions and the inhabitants gradually deserted the site, moving to neighbouring villages. The attachment of the parish of Rame to that of La Roche in 1446 is indicative of this decline.

This small tree is present in North Africa, the Iberian Peninsula and in a few departments in southern France, including the Hautes-Alpes. It is regarded as a relic from a warmer period far back in history. It has found a refuge in well exposed situations, on warm sunny slopes. Its needles are in the form of scales, lying against the branches. It is a monitored species.

The hamlet of Pallon is in a sunny location. Around the village, a curious plant with long brown trumpet-like flowers grows on the edges of the stone piles in the fields and meadows: the aristolochia pistolochia or birthwort. Of Mediterranean affinity, this plant benefits from the hot dry climate here and is virtually at its northern boundary. It is the host plant of the caterpillars of a rare and protected butterfly: the Spanish festoon. 

A low spreading shrub, the savin juniper is very common in stony meadows and uncultivated land on warm slopes. Its dark, matte green leaves in the form of small scales, overlap along the branches. So it isn't spiky... but you still need to be cautious as it is very toxic. For seasoning dishes, better to gather the fruits of the common juniper!

The Bouchouse mountain stream is fed by the Le Pansier and La Pisse mountain streams 1,900 metres above sea level. It crosses the municipality of La Roche-de-Rame, supplying it with water. This mountain stream then flows into the Durance below the municipality.

Des aiguilles jaune d’or en automne, des cônes violets au printemps… Le mélèze est un nuancier de couleurs tout au long de l’année, il porte plutôt bien son appellation d’arbre lumière. Il perd ses douces aiguilles caduques en automne et hiver. Au printemps, les petites branches de ce conifère sont parsemées de fleurs femelles, qui deviendront des cônes, et mâles. Le mélèze se plaît sur l’ubac et illumine la montagne.

Une petite population de mouflons fréquente les lieux. Le mouflon méditerranéen, issu de croisements entre mouflons de Corse et d'autres espèces de mouflons ou de moutons, a été introduit il y a plusieurs décennies par les sociétés de chasse. C'est un animal mal adapté à la neige, aussi se tient-il sur les pentes sud vite déneigées. Le mâle arbore de grandes cornes enroulées. Les femelles, le plus souvent sans corne, peuvent parfois en avoir, droites et peu développées.

Oiseau très commun, ce pinson vit aussi bien en forêt que dans les villages. Le mâle est plutôt dans les tons de rosé, avec une calotte gris bleu, la femelle plus terne dans les tons de gris vert. C’est un oiseau assez grégaire, hormis en période de reproduction. Ces oiseaux communiquent souvent entre eux par des « pink, pink ». Il est partiellement migrateur. Les populations du nord de l’Europe viennent passer l’hiver en France et autres pays tempérés.

The bearberry is a small bush which grows no taller than 20 centimetres. Its small, glossy, evergreen leaves are reminiscent of those of the lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis idaea) but they are not as thick and, above all, its fruits are much less appetising, although they are edible. It will depend on your tastes!

The Bois du Truc overlooks the rock beds above the hamlet of Le Bathéou in the municipality of La Roche-de-Rame. In our region, a truc is a large buried rock, a rocky area or an abrupt buttress. So the Bois du Truc is the "wood of the large rock".

On the water's edge, in the wet meadow, plants with a cottony head sway gently. This is cotton grass, a plant which has insignificant rudimentary flowers but it has fruits that have feathery tufts which aid their dispersal by the wind. The fruits are grouped in such a way that their tufts form a very appealing «pompom»! These plants are well adapted to the mountain climate.

In the wet areas beside the streams lives the large marsh grasshopper. Its French name, criquet engsanglanté, translates as the "bloodied grasshopper" because the female has purple-red marks which stand out against her general green colour. Her eggs are drought-sensitive so she only lays them in damp soil. When courting the female, the male does not chirp but makes clicking sounds, which he produces by stretching his hind leg in a sudden movement.

Un éclair rouge sur le chemin, puis plus rien … Mais si ! Un criquet tout gris est posé sur une pierre grise. Un autre éclair rouge : il s’est envolé puis s’est reposé, créant surprise et désarroi. Voilà de quoi désorienter un prédateur. L’oedipode rouge se préserve ainsi, repliant au repos ses ailes colorées sous ses élytres et jouant alors sur son homochromie. Un éclair bleu ? C’est son cousin l’oedipode bleu !

Gentle and melancholic calls can be heard coming from trees in the forest. They are the calls of the bullfinch, a plump and timid little passerine. The male can be identified from his pinkish red underside, while the female's is beige. Both have a black cap. They often live in small groups, staying in contact with one another through their little calls. It is a year-round resident.

Golden yellow needles in autumn, purple cones in the spring... The larch offers colour interest throughout the year, and rather suits its title "the tree of light". It drops its soft deciduous needles in autumn and winter. In spring, the slender branches of this conifer are dotted with female flowers, which will develop into cones, and male flowers. The larch thrives on the north-facing slopes and lights up the mountainsides. 

The alpine anemone or the alpine pulsatilla blooms here in the spring. It is a plant with a downy covering of white hairs on the large drooping flowers which are dark purple, contrasting with the bright yellow of the numerous stamens, and with very indented leaves. In summer, its fruits with a long pappus, or tuft, form a feathery seed head atop the stem. Although it is frequently found in localised areas, it is nevertheless a rare species dependent on steppe meadows in the Durance valley.