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Roadtrip: Tournai to Dinant | Hit the Road
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Description
What to see?
Tournai’s UNESCO-worthy belfry and cathedral, the lakes at Cerfontaine, the Château in Beloeil and Hitler’s hideaway in Brûly-de-Pesche.
Where to drive?
The N598 over the tranquil lakes, the N59 to sample Wallonia’s customary mix of open fields and close-set villages, the roads around Brûly for compact twists in a tunnel of green.
Just eight kilometres from the French border and 90 minutes from the Channel Tunnel, the city of Tournai is the medieval gateway to Wallonia. Clustered around the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, itself a UNSECO world heritage site that mixes Gothic and Romanesque styles, the centre delights with open squares, cobbled streets and cultural sights.
The remains of the 17th century citadel commissioned by King Louis XIV and the art gallery that houses a range of Impressionist works demand attention, but the city’s most remarkable story is almost invisible.
Besieged in 1513 and held for the next ve years, Tournai is the only continental European city to ever fall under the control of Henry VIII. One of the main towers built during the occupation – the Grosse Tour – still stands in the north of the city. Spy it from Rue de Rempart, then pick up the N7 for a leisurely cruise east through Leuze-en-Hainaut and the N526 heading south.
The pace soon slows, the route wandering through the centre of Belœil, and a keen eye might spot the entrance to the local château. A multi-era building that sits within acres of pristine Baroque garden, it’s well worth a stop. Nearby Chemin du Major oŸers another angle on the estate, skimming along the perimeter to oŸer a glimpse of the grounds’ imposing water features.
If it’s tranquil vistas you’re after, the N90 and N59 track over open land to the expansive Lakes of Cerfontaine but that’s no reason to miss Mons. Hungry travellers will welcome the restaurants that ¡ank the main square here, while the Biercée Distillery in nearby Thuin will satisfy passengers looking for something stronger.
Fast twists lead on into Chimay where glimpses of Armco and coloured kerbing reveal that you’re on the route of the Chimay road circuit, once host to Maserati 250Fs and straight-eight Bugattis, now a classic motorcycle racing venue. The town’s streets fuss with antique terrace housing and the local Abbey is renowned for its brewery.
Amble south through the trees and turns of the Rue des Parconniers and Brûly-de-Pesche eventually appears. A short walk in the forest brings you to Wolf’s Gorge – the secret base where Hitler resided in May and June 1940. His walking route and emergency bunker have both been preserved; to walk into the sparse concrete interior is unsettling but highly recommended.
Dinant, the birthplace of saxophone inventer Adolf Sax, echoes to jazz. The medieval fortress towers above the town, the local scenery rewards a Meuse river cruise and the restaurants tempt with popular moules marinière.
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